THINGS I ATE: Brunch Foods at Sonny’s Hideaway

Brunch. It’s more than just a portmanteau. It’s a way of life. And in Los Angeles, I’m always on the lookout for new brunch options. There simply are not enough in this town, and any time a decent place pops up, it’s only a matter of time before it’s saddled with a 45 minute wait.

Nevertheless, when I was invited to a media-comped brunch at Sonny’s Hideaway this past week, I quickly jumped at the opportunity to go. Perhaps I’d have a new destination to add to my ever expanding brunch list.

Did the restaurant deliver the goods? Pics and commentary after the jump…

Here’s an interior view of Sonny’s Hideaway, located in the quickly gentrifying Highland Park neighborhood of Los Angeles.

Despite how dark this picture looks, there was actually a good amount of natural light in the dining room. The restaurant also boasts a patio in the back, but sweltering temperatures outside kept us in the air conditioning.

It’s not brunch without a Bloody Mary, and I’m happy to report that Sonny’s definitely delivers. Spicy and strong, this cocktail had me reeling within fifteen minutes. I would have tried the other interesting drinks on the menu, but I was driving and being a good member of society.

Ricotta fritters. I want to sugar coat this like the fritters themselves, but I unfortunately can’t. These were dry and tough.

A citrus salad with yogurt, beets, goat cheese, and Thai basil proved to be lovely and fresh. A definite highlight of the meal.

A passion fruit custard topped with berries was a big hit at the table. My well-documented aversion toward berries, however, meant that I had to watch from the sidelines.

A beautiful brioche French toast with pecans and cinnamon creme fraiche arrived next. Watching the other diners cut into this, it looked to have a perfect, eggy texture. But again, my extreme hatred for berries meant that I had to skip this course thanks to the berry syrup served on top of the dish. #TeamMaple.

Moving into savory territory, a chickpea pancake with chard, eggplant, and parmesan arrived next. I wanted to love this, but it unfortunately fell short for me. While the chard and eggplant were full of flavor, the pancake itself was dense and under-seasoned.

Much more successful were these carnitas, hidden under a runny egg and served with fried tomatillos, pickled onions and jalapeños, and an avocado purée. This was by far the best dish of the morning, and the one I returned to for seconds, thirds, fourths, and fifths. Bright flavors, strong textures — definitely a winner.

Fried chicken with poached eggs, biscuits, and a “saw mill hollandaise.” The biscuit was tasty.

While I’m not sure Sonny’s will make it onto my regular brunch rotation (it did take me 45 minutes to drive there from Hollywood on a Sunday morning), for locals it should prove to be a perfectly decent option. At the very least you’ll get a solid Bloody Mary.

Sonny’s Hideaway
5137 York Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90042
(323) 255-2000
sonnyshideaway.com